The Danish-French fashion designer Anne Isabella weaves vintage inspiration into playful prints.
← Anne Isabella is reviving the spirit of the 1960s and ‘70s. In her most recent collections, the Danish-French fashion designer weaves vintage inspiration into playful prints, intricate detailing, and precise tailoring. “The stripes on the Lenticular pant are lasered-printed in Italy,” she says. “It’s a very complex process. Each side—the pocket, front, and back—all have a different design made for that piece. The design follows the shape of the pocket, giving it a warped illusion.” The swim top pulls from more organic visual motifs. “The ‘60s and ‘70s are always part of my research. It’s an underlying theme that runs through the brand. I was looking at a lot of elements from nature—like the formation of shells and natural patterns.”
← Repetition, optical illusions, and visual instability are also central themes in Anne Isabella’s designs—a reminder that some pieces invite a double take. Her SS23 collection captivates with psychedelic graphics and deconstructed knitwear. “This dress had a starting point where the patterns were very geometric,” she says. “I was inspired by works from artist Julio Le Parc, who creates a very kinetic type of art with mirrors and reflections. That’s why I chose to incorporate some shimmering materials. I also wanted to introduce some femininity into the color palette. I combined that with deconstructing cardigans and dresses, which is why the placket comes slightly off. It’s about taking something recognizable and making it more abstract.”
← Anne Isabella’s collections also bring a tactile, organic dimension to reimagined 1960s and ‘70s-inspired garments. Through her method of incorporating scanned prints into her designs, the collection moves outside of the 2D realm of print to a third dimension. Warped motifs on knitwear, like those seen on her Kaleidoscopic skirt, carry themes of shadow play and repetition. As in nature, there is an element of the unexpected, embraced in discordant texture and print. “My collections often start with research, exploration, testing things, and trying to create new shapes,” she says. “Eventually, the process stops and the pieces take over and have a life of their own.”
← Anne’s psychedelic lenticular prints give optical dimension and motion to her SS24 collection’s swim pieces. These playful patterns bring a fresh perspective to classic designs, while intricate detailing evokes the elegance of vintage luxury. “I was inspired by the Mod style of the ‘60s with these pieces, which is why the colors are so strong,” Anne says. “I introduced some snakeskin designs previously as well, so they build off of that. I also wanted to play with the Mod aesthetic by giving the one piece a little cap sleeve. It’s kind of refreshing—usually, swimwear shows more skin, but this set covers more in a playful way. The back is still open, so you’re not fully covered, but it’s a different direction from what’s typically done.”
Model: Anna DeJonge.
Hair & Makeup: Tanya Renelt, The Rock Agency
A version of this article originally appeared in “Annotated” in Sixtysix Issue 13.